FASHION AND TEXTILE

FROM FRENCH REVOLUTION TO THE 1920IES 

Based on the realisation that fashionable silhouettes are tied to the time in which they were created, this Cycle III teaches knowledge of fashion, textiles and the beginnings of the modern fashions system.  The focus is on the 19th century, the democratisation of fashion and the development of the haute couture system; the production of fashion and the developement of the  capitalistic fashion  system. 

Using selected visual sources and other media, the cultural history of clothing as part of world and everyday culture is elaborated. The following aspects are of particular interest and form focal points of the lecture:

- Basic knowledge of the history of fashion of sexes

Changes in the production conditions of fashion and textiles

 - Conveyance of the image of the world and of man in the periods of time that have shaped silhouettes (historical time window)

- Fashion and communication; rituals, gestures and dress language

- Democratisation of fashion - development of haute couture

- History of the economic and distribution process, technical inventions

 - Sensitisation of the ability to distinguish between fashionable, ethnic and functional clothing

Literature:

Bönsch, Annemarie, Formengeschichte Europäischer Kleidung, Wien-Köln- Weimar 2001

Boucher, Francois, 20 000 Years of Fashion. The History of Costume and Personal Adornment, London 1987  

De la Haye, Amy, Fashion since 1900 (World of Art), London 2021

Hunter, Clare, Threads of Life, London 2019

Gordon, Beverly, Textiles. The whole Story, London 2011

Kawamura, Yunia, Fashion-ology, An introduction to fashion studies, London 2004  

 McDowell, Colin, The Anatomy of Fashion, London 2013

Reclams Mode- und Kostüm Lexikon, Hg. von Ingrid Loschek und Gundula Wolter, Stuttgart 1987 und spätere Auflagen  

 

Wilckens, Leonie von, Die textilen Künste, München 1991

Rieff Anawalt, Patricia, Weltgeschichte der Bekleidung, Bern 2007

Further literature will be added on an ongoing basis. There are books and literature for the lecture in the library and current supplements and literature and media recommendations in the course of the lecture.

 

Requirements

Students must take a written exam at the end of the lecture dates. There are 3 examination dates. The written exam consists of open questions. The written exam can also be answered in English, but the language in the lecture is german. 

Attendance of the lectures is not compulsory, but recommended.

 

Evaluation and grading

The grade is composed only of the results of the written exam. In case of a negative result, the exam can be repeated up to 3 times.

Methods and expectations

Handwritten notes and drawings are encouraged during the lecture. Students are also allowed to use their laptops.  There is a script for each lecture.  Questions and comments on the topic may be asked at any time.

Basic literature should be read in addition to the lectures (reference library).

 

Aims

Students get an overview of the history of fashion and aspects of textile history. They can recognise fashionable silhouettes and classify them historically and socially. They are able to critically assess the fashion system of the present from the knowledge of history.

Organisation

This course is designed as a lecture. The contents are lectured, short discussions can be integrated.   The course ends with a written exam which focuses on the reproduction of the contents.

Material

The following materials will be made available to the students. Scripts - Extensive handbook in the library

Prerequisites

This lecture is an overview lecture with an introductory character. Previous knowledge of the content is not necessary.